INVITE NATIVE POLLINATORS TO YOUR BACKYARD
Most wild honeybee colonies have been destroyed by
mites and the resulting lack of pollination has become serious, so it is critical
that our many species of native pollen bees be protected and increased. About one
third of the world food supply depends directly upon pollination and almost
another third depends indirectly upon pollination (the production of meat, eggs
and milk for instance require clover, alfalfa, etc. which is fed to the
animals).
There are several things that can be done to attract
and increase the many native pollinators to your yard. Since there are many good
books available that describe how to attract butterflies, hummingbirds and bats to
your yard, only pollen bees will be discussed here. Pollen bees usually don’t
resemble honeybees. They come in many sizes and they may be metallic green or
blue, grey or black, some may be smooth and shiny, others fuzzy. To increase
their numbers, plant adequate nectar and pollen producing plants and trees to
provide food over the entire season. Most flowers, herbs and flowering trees
and shrubs provide food for these gentle pollinators. The blossoms or flowers
should be the old fashioned single varieties, as the fancier double flowers
usually provide little if any nectar or pollen.
Most wild bees are solitary and make their nests in
old beetle holes in wood, or nest underground in sunny soils. Some are severely limited
by the lack of nest holes. Their numbers can be greatly increased by providing
wooden blocks with many holes. Most of these native bees (although solitary)
are gregarious and actually prefer to nest next to others.
The nest blocks are fairly simple to make; any well
seasoned scrap wood will do but pine and fir are easier to work with. DO NOT use treated lumber, it is toxic. I use 7" lengths of either 2"x 4" or
4"x 4" with holes drilled 6" deep in one end. Holes must be drilled with a bradpoint bit (dowel bit) for smoothness. The most preferred size hole is 5/16" for the orchard mason (blue orchard) bee, but 1/4" and smaller holes will sometimes also
attract some of the smaller species of bees. You can also attract the various Ceratina species by bundling groups of
elderberry stems or other pithy stems together in a sheltered location.
All blocks must be placed out of the direct sun in a
dry sheltered location preferably on or at the East side of a building or they
may be placed on a shelf in a shed or carport that is always open. It is ideal
to place them about 6' off the ground for easy viewing and out of the reach of
children or pets. These bees are very gentle and will not sting unless caught
and pinched. Their sting is much milder than even a mosquito bite.
Blocks should be placed out near the end of March or
early April. The bees will fill the holes in the blocks and cap them with mud
or leaf material between April and July depending upon species. Do not move or
handle the block after the bees have started nests, until about September when
the bees have become dormant adults in their "cocoons" waiting to
hatch next Spring. They may be moved to a new location after September, if
desired. Note: Sometimes Potter Wasps use the 5/16" holes also. They
resemble the common paper wasps and do not interfere with the pollen bees, are
very beneficial and should be welcomed. They have been observed carrying back
green cabbage loopers, sawfly larvae and apple maggots to their nest holes.
If you wish to check the level of pollination and you
have an apple tree in your area, just cut some of the apples crossways and
count the number of plump brown seeds.
There should be 10 plump brown seeds in a perfectly pollinated apple,
and not less than 7 fully developed seeds in any case. You will note that there
are 5 seed pockets with 2 possible seeds in each. Any pockets with less than 2
seeds or with white seeds or shriveled brown seeds indicate poor pollination.
The most obvious sign of poor pollination can be found
in the Cucurbitaceae family (squash, pumpkin, cucumber, melon, etc.)
These plants have both male and female blossoms and require several trips back
and forth between blossoms to provide perfect pollination. For instance
whenever you find underdeveloped or white seeds in a watermelon, it is a result
of poor pollination. A poorly pollinated fruit of any kind will also be
deformed and bitter compared to a perfectly pollinated fruit.
If you are rearing any of the pollen bees in blocks as
previously described, they should be placed in the orchard about a week before
the “king” blossoms are ready to open. Apples usually bloom in clusters of 5
blossoms. The center and strongest blossom is called the “king” blossom,
because it opens first and produces the best apple of any blossom in the
cluster. When nature provides us with perfect weather and the “king” blossoms
are not killed by frost, they produce a growth inhibitor which thins the other
blossoms so that you get only the very best fruit.
(Attached is a list of nectar and pollen plants which
can help to support a healthy bee population throughout the year.)
Copyright 1999
by Raymond D. Williams
The purpose of this work is to promote the use of
pollen bees and the conservation of native bees. Permission is granted to reproduce and distribute this paper for
non-commercial purposes wherever it can further the aforementioned goals.
Since this paper was written, new diseases and pests
(colony collapse
disease CCD, etc.) have further decimated the honeybee populations and
the pollination problems have reached a crisis level.
Also,
many new nesting materials for solitary bees can now be purchased
and I have tested about 25 different materials for various researchers
and found Dr. Karen Strickler's Binderboard® with paper straw inserts to
be the best and most convenient to use. It can be purchased directly from
her website http://www.pollinatorparadise.com
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Alfalfa |
Hawthorn (all species) |
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Amur Honeysuckle |
Herbs (flowering) |
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Anise Hyssop |
Hollyhock (single) |
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Apple |
Honeysuckle |
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Asters |
Iris |
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Autumn Olive |
Juneberry |
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Azalea |
Lespedeza |
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Basswood |
Maple, Red (Acer
rubrum) |
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Bedstraw (all species) |
Maples, Other |
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Berries (all species) |
Milkweed |
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Birdsfoot trefoil |
Mints (all species) |
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Black Locust |
Mustard (all species) |
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Buckwheat |
Nasturtiums |
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Calendula (single) |
Orchids |
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Canola |
Peach |
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Catalpa |
Peppers |
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Catnip |
Phacelia |
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Citrus (all kinds) |
Plum |
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Chestnut |
Potato |
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Chinkapin |
Rhododendron |
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Chives |
Russian Sage |
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Chokecherry (and other cherries) |
Sassafras |
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Clover (all species) |
Serviceberry |
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Cole crops |
Soy beans |
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Comfrey |
Spring bulbs (most) |
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Crocus, bunch flowering |
Staghorn Sumac |
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Crownvetch |
Sunflower (and other similar |
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Dandelion |
composite flowers) |
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Dogwood (all species) |
Sweetclover (yellow & white) |
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Eggplant |
Thyme |
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Eranthis hyemalis |
Tomato |
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Fruit Trees (all species) |
Tulip poplar |
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Goldenrod (all species) |
Tupelo |
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Grape |
Valerian |
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Greek Oregano |
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Gumtree |
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In general, plants with colorful fragrant flowers
attract bees, flies, butterflies and beetles as pollinators. White or pale flowers that open at night
usually are pollinated by moths, and deep-throated red or orange flowers
attract hummingbirds. Flowers of
grasses, grain crops and many trees are pollinated by the wind.
POLLEN BEES CURRENTLY BEING USED FOR POLLINATION
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NATIVE BEE SPECIES |
Nest Type |
Use of Bee |
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Orchard Mason (Blue Orchard) Bee (Western) Osmia
lignaria propinquaCresson |
Nests in holes |
Orchard Pollination |
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Orchard Mason (Blue Orchard) Bee (Eastern) Osmia lignaria lignaria Say |
Nests in holes |
Orchard Pollination |
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Bullheaded Mason Bee Osmia bucephala |
Nests in holes |
Being tested for berry pollination |
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Tiny Carpenter Bees Several Ceratina Species |
Nests in pith |
Melon pollination and other crops |
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Squash Bees Several Peponapis Species |
Nests in the ground |
Squashes, pumpkin and gourds |
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Blueberry Bee
Osmia ribifloris |
Nests in holes |
Blueberries |
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Blueberry Bee
Hapropoda laboriosa |
Holes in ground |
Blueberries |
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Alkali Bee Nomia
melanderi |
Holes in ground |
Alfalfa Seed Production |
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Also native Bumblebees Several Bombus
Species |
In mouse nests or cotton |
Various crops, especially blueberries and tomatoes |
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Mustached Mud Bee
Anthophora abrupta |
In adobe blocks |
Being tested for cranberries |
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Onion Bee Heriades carinata |
1/8” holes in blocks |
Various herbs, oregano, Alliums |
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IMPORTED BEE SPECIES |
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Hornfaced Bee (Imported from Japan) Osmia
cornifrons |
Nests in holes |
Orchard pollination |
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Shaggy Fuzzyfoot Bee (Imported from Japan) Anthophora
pilipes villosula |
In adobe blocks |
Orchards and blueberries in Southeast |
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European Osmia (Introduced from Europe) Osmia
coerulescens (naturalized
in New York for many years) |
Nests in holes |
Clover pollination |
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Alfalfa Leafcutter Bee (Introduced from Europe) Megachile rotundata |
Nests in holes |
Alfalfa seed production |
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Honeybee (Imported from Europe) Apis
mellifera |
Nests in hives |
Various crops and honey production |
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Giant Resin Bee (Accidently introduced from Central Asia) Megachile
sculpturalis Smith |
Nests in holes |
Legumes |